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This marks squash season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other comfort food of fall. This Northwest Indian stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of fresh ginger, chilli and jaggery lends it a wonderful flavor harmony. The biryani, on the other hand, is loaded with aromatic spices, basmati and ghee, which give so much more flavour to the strata of rice and vegetables.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

National curry week starts on October 6, so how perfect to mark the occasion than with a rich, warming, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? If you like, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture component ahead of time and assemble all components on the day you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the curry base. Heat the ghee in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a moderate flame, incorporate the cumin, bay leaves and cloves, and sauté for a few seconds. Stir in the sliced onion and cook, stirring often, for about half an hour, until softened. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a plate and set aside (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Introduce the fresh chilies and ginger to the onions in pan, fry for a minute, then mix in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and sauté for a minute. Reduce to a gentle flame, stir in the yogurt and simmer for two minutes.

Mix in the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for three minutes. Pour in the liquid, and season to taste. Heat until boiling, then turn down the temperature, place lid and cook gently for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure no sticking to the base of the pot. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then take off the stove.

Heat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Rinse the basmati, then place it in a pot with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom and seasoning. Bring to a boil, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

To build the biryani, place a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in half the vegetable curry, then layer with half the rice. Add a portion the saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice blend, then add the reserved fried onions. Top with the rest of vegetable curry, then arrange the leftover rice. Top with the remaining ghee, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Seal with baking paper, place lid securely, then cook on the middle shelf of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours soak into the rice. Take out of the heat, allow to stand, still covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the cover and serve with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Indian word "achari" describes flavouring a dish using pickling spices, and the mix contains mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin, asafoetida and nigella, but they're not used only in preserved foods. The blend also appears in all manner of spiced dishes and stir-fries, such as this one.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then set aside. Heat the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or kadhai on a moderate flame. Introduce the crushed spices and the hing, and sauté, stirring, for a brief moment. Mix in the chopped ginger, fry for a short while, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and fry, stirring, for several additional minutes.

Add a small amount liquid to the pot, salt with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, turn down the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway. Mix in the palm sugar, breaking up chunks a little, then incorporate the mango powder, mix thoroughly and serve warm with chapatis or leavened bread.