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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.